Italy's native wines: Vitigno Italia celebrates indigenous grape varieties

The Vitigno Italia event starts on Sunday in Naples, in a wine exhibition that showcases what we can describe as Italy’s “native wines”. Vitigno Italia is specifically dedicated to grape varieties from Italy, and should prove to be a fascinating event, to taste everything from Arneis to Aglianico, Zibibbo and back again.

Alternatively speaking, I am a particular fan of Italy’s southern grape varietals (otherwise I stick to nebbiolo which is an all-time favourite of mine). Impressive indigenous wines, particularly from Campania, include Greco di Tufo, falanghina, and aglianico, and moving further north Tuscany offers some great vermentino, though I also love Vermentino di Gallura from Sardinia.

In its 2009 Italy supplement, Decanter takes a look at Italy’s indigenous whites, saying that insipid Italian white wines have damaged the country’s reputation. Mark O’Halleron takes a look at some of the indigenous whites, saying that it is a reputation that, “on the basis of this tasting, Italy has been rather harshly lumbered with”.

I couldn’t agree more, and if the UK hasn’t got its hands on good Italian whites, and has only “unimaginative” Pinot Grigio or Soave on offer, more fool them. It doesn’t take much exploring in Italy to find some excellent whites, and some even more excellent native whites.

So here’s hoping that Vitigno Italia will be a real celebration; after all, Italy has the most incredible patrimony in terms of grape varieties, that makes it an exciting country to explore, via its wines.

P.S For a look at some interesting wine from Campania, take a look at Terredora: amazing Greco di Tufo, coda di volpe (I love this name for a grape: “the fox’s tail”) and Taurasi (aglianico).

Vermentino from Australia

An interesting discussion came up on our Ozwine group mailing list on the grape variety, Vermentino. I have just recently had the opportunity to try some vermentino, traditionally a variety from Liguria, Tuscany and Sardinia in Italy.

I have been sampling some Sardinian wine recently, one of which is a Vermentino di Gallura DOCG from the wine coop Giogantinu. The wine has 13% alcohol and is very soft and inviting, with a thickness on the palate which lets you know you’re drinking hot climate white wine.

I also recently tried a Vermentino from the Montecucco area of Tuscany. It turned up most surprisingly at a dinner I was at recently where French wine should have been the protagonist. Unfortunately I didn’t get the producer’s name, but this was a far more elegant, fresh and subtle example. Really worth a try.

The discussion in our Ozwine group came up with Australian vermentino examples, including Brown Brothers, Foxey's Hangout the White Fox Vermentino and Mudgee growers, Di Lusso, who specialise in Italian varieties (thanks to Ozwin-ers for the tips!).

All this comes down to the fact that after my explorations of Italian vermentino, I will have to try the Australian interpretation of Italian wine, and try some “true blue” vermentino when I’m home at Christmas. It could make for the perfect summer aperitif.