Finding French wine in Australia (to then import to Europe)

Who says the Europeans know better than us? Welcome to the new world, in all its laidback professionalism.

I’ve had the rather strange situation of contacting an Australian wine shop, all the way from Italy, as part of our famous ongoing acquisition of Romanee Conti (2006 vintage this time). I expect it put a wry smile on the face of the guy who owns the shop.

Anyway, the point of this post is that my boss, in asking me to do this, requested that I make specific enquiries as to the “security” of these bottles – that is how they would be transported, covering them with insurance etc.

The thing that amuses me is that while Rathdowne Cellars might be small fry compared to what we’re used to, they were far more pleasant and professional in their response than other interactions I’ve had.

We’re very good at buying willy nilly all over the world, and the idea that more care was required just because we were considering a purchase in Australia, narked at me just a little (see my comments on jet lagged wine from the US for example).

Rathdowne Cellars gave me a quote on shipment from Australia to Italy which was not necessarily cheap, but neither was it outrageously expensive.

No cheaper shipping options are available though. Why? Because in the words of Cameron Kidd, store manager: “This is via my preferred air carrier with door-to-door freight. We do not use cheaper options like sea freight, as for small quantities I cannot guarantee it will go in temperature controlled containers.”

And to think I couldn’t even get wine shipped from England to Italy, with Christie’s (largest auction house in the world) preferred shipper in a refrigerated truck.

Move over Romanée Conti, Mornington Peninsula pinot has arrived!

Not quite, but I am nearly over the moon after reading Neal Martin’s piece on his visit to the famed Romanée Conti cellars. Neal writes for Wine Journal on Robert Parker’s website, and you have to subscribe to read the articles, which means I can’t produce a link here.

But I will faithfully quote the writer who is probably the envy of many wine writers, drinkers, traders etc. who consider the Domaine as the Mecca of wine around the world, as he is one of the few to have had a personal tour of the cellar (at least he makes it sound very exclusive).

Anyway, he met the “self-effacing proprietor Aubert de Villaine” and had a little tour and a little taste of Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Duvault-Blochet, La Tâche and Romanée-Conti from the barrel.

After some tasting notes, or bragging, about the above-mentioned wines, Neal says:
“I then ask him about his quote that: ‘Pinot Noir not tasting of anything’, a phrase I know is completely taken out of context, but pertinent and a truism all the same. He describes Pinot Noir as being “elusive”, a grape difficult to cultivate outside Burgundy; a grape that responds and obeys its terroir.
“Have you had any good experiences outside Burgundy?”
“A Chalon ’69,” he replies and then upon further consideration. “Otago. Some nice Pinot Noirs from Oregon and Mornington Peninsular.”

And there you have it! Australia gets a humble and little known geographic treasure into the books of the world’s greatest pinot noir winemaker.

P.S Perhaps my joy was more overcome by gloating to my Italian colleague who works with me in a largely French-tinted company which snubs anything new-wordly and which is buying bucket loads of Romanée-Conti 2005. I said “If you ever want to thumb your nose at Aussies wines again, just remember that Australian pinot was cited by Aubert de Villaine. I don’t see any Italian pinot mentioned.”

European vs American wine market: Romanee Conti pricing

I’m a novice in this business, but I permit myself the arrogance of doubt. Sometimes I have my reservations about our purchasing decisions, like in the last couple of days.

Being based in Italy, and trading in French wine, you would think that Europe had enough on offer that we wouldn’t have to search overseas; except on special occasions as in the case of Acker’s Hong Kong auction in May – after all you don’t find magnums of Mouton Rothschild 1945 just floating around on the market.

But in the last couple of days I have had reason to be more concerned about our wine purchasing strategy as we acquire a number of bottles of Romanee Conti 2005 from an American wine merchant.

One set comes in an open wine case (OWC) which is good for the collection, but we already have an ocean of Romanee Conti 2005 and even purchasing in the less favourable sterling currency we’d get it for less – in the case of the OWC a good 2000 euros difference. The only question is availability.

Then there’s the trip to be considered. My colleague expertly tells me that wines imported from the US have a lesser value, due to jet lag presumably. Just kidding, although this argument often amuses me as at its base lies the concern over less prudent transportation practices. Higher temperatures, dodgy packing etc. affects the quality of the wine.

I think it should be stipulated that it affects the drinkability of the wine, not its image. And lets face it, most of these wines are not purchased to be consumed, but to lie in wait for an increase in brand image before selling them on.

Anyway, fingers crossed we can get the wines delivered straight to our free port cellaring facilities. Otherwise a 20 percent tax haul means we could really be shooting ourselves in the foot.